Thursday, May 6, 2010

Objects of Desire

A few weekends ago, I was in the Spice Bazaar stocking spices for my dad. He likes the ones for potatoes, chicken and meat. The spice mixtures, teas and henna are mounded in barrels and scooped into plastic bags to be vacuum-packed for shipping. Because I want to practice speaking, and because I think it's respectful to at least try and communicate in the language of the country in which I live, I haltingly requested my dad's spices in Turkish. (I do realize that it is more than slightly hypocritical of me not to speak Turkish better than I do and not to make more of a concentrated effort to learn the language. I have a full shelf of Teach Yourself Turkish books but only read them for a few weeks after buying them before I get distracted by something else. Lessons are a possibility, but just the thought of sitting in a three hour lesson, three evenings a week after teaching all day exhausts me. And my weekends are sacred. But I digress.) After I had chosen a selection of spice mixtures, the salesman said "I want to say this in your language. Thank you for trying to speak to me in my language." Often, salespeople will tell me that I speak very well with varying degrees of sincerity. This man, however, appeared genuine in his compliment, and struggled to express himself in English. I was enjoying the encounter enough to buy a few more mixtures, even though I'm sure my dad has no need for lemon pepper and special flavorings for rice.

Several months ago, I was on a mission to find something in particular in Çukurcuma, a section of the city near Taksim Square known for its overpriced antique shops. I never found the thing for which I was looking, but that's beside the point. A series of signs advertised a new store called "Objects of Desire," a place where one can find unique and memorable items for the home. I found the store and was taken by the amount of very cool objects inside, vintage sunglasses, toys, kitchen wares, clothes, crowding every centimeter of shelf space, spilling over into the narrow passageways. It was a bit claustrophobia inducing, but I pressed on from one room to the next and spotted a thing or two that might have fit the description of the object of my mission. Since I don't like plastic and didn't want metal, I tapped gently on the sides of the display cases that might have been worthy of my hard-earned cash.

The very surly man, the owner I assumed, answered my grammatically incorrect questions with impatience. Determined, I continued to look and ask until finally he looked at me with the greatest contempt he could muster and snapped "Look, why don't you just tell me what you're looking for!" Taken aback, I imagine that my facial expression first conveyed shock, then anger. "Well, you keep on babbling in Turkish!" This time, I am sure my face immediately registered acute anger, and I replied with all the indignation I could muster in return "I'm leaving" which was answered with a snotty "Fine" over the man's shoulder. I think I'm a polite person, at least I usually try, but I couldn't just leave without comment to this man who until the previous minute had not given any indication that he spoke English and allowed me to continue in a manner that clearly offended him. "Most people appreciate that I at least try to speak in their language, but if you're going to be a complete asshole, I'm not going to buy anything from you."

I tried not to let the experience bother me, especially because vendors often compliment me on my language skills with varying degrees of sincerity, and because there's a man in the Spice Bazaar who is genuine.

1 comment:

Unknown said...

I've done pretty well with Romanian, and get compliments constantly. It's very rare for foreigners, especially Americans, but any foreigners, to even try. But I still get the occasional nasty impatient salesperson who doesn't seem to appreciate that his or her livelihood partially comes from my pocket. Part of the equation just doesn't hit home.
I'm astonished to hear of them in Turkey. people tell me that Turkish salespeople are extremely forthcoming, even the assholes!
Well, at least he's not your Turkish teacher.